Maybe its better i don't have one i would probably just break it or drop it on my toe. I also have my grandfathers anvil that he bought in 1935 at Montgomery wards... i have been looking for an anvil, i still dont have one yet!I bought a 580 lbs Peter Wright at Scranton lace factory sale for 0.00... Theirs a guy near me that has a 100 pound swage block, their is one chip out of the corner, but other than that it is in great shape, he wants 0 for it, i dont know if it is worth that much, he also has a 80 pound anvil for 0, i dont know how good of deals they are, he still has them as far as i know. ) ANYway.......it's apparent that was long time ago because....... FSIGQAodxg PXq A Saturday I went to the Collingswood Auction, the only Flee/Flea (that's a story in itself) a 30 minute drive and spent 45 minutes hobbling from table to table just looking.Before one can fully understand Vulkan He'stan and his quest, one must first know the tale of the Salamanders.
- If you see a series of numbers (serial number) on the front foot, it is almost certainly to be a Trenton, Hay-Budden or Arm & Hammer. Usually, but not always, it was due to an incomplete weld between the anvil and top plate.
To be so honoured is to be tasked with an epic quest, a journey that has been handed down in turn to the greatest heroes of the Chapter since the mysterious disappearance of their beloved Primarch, Vulkan.
For millennia the Forgefather of the Salamanders has led the search to recover legendary relics, the Artefacts of Vulkan.
This is just intended as a rough guide for identifying anvils which are not clearly marked.
For more detail information see Anvil's in America by Richard Postman (and More on Anvils when it is published): - If there is an oval depression in the bottom it may be either a Trenton. If there is a clear line/seam showning a top plate it would likely be a Trenton or Arm & Hammer.